Antique French Import 1.89 Carat Old Mine Cut Diamond Belcher Style Ring - GIA VS2 J
A study in refined simplicity, this antique belcher-style ring is distinguished by its elegant proportions and sculptural presence. Graceful prongs lift a lively 1.89 carat old mine-cut diamond high above the finger, allowing lots of light to enter and offer an unobstructed view of the stone from every angle. The diamond is rich in character, its broad, chunky facets creating a lively play of light, further enhanced by a subtle kozibe effect—the poetic reflection of the open culet softly mirrored across the table. A jewel of understated elegance.
Accompanied by a GIA report stating VS2 clarity and J color. French import marks. Crafted in 18K gold. Currently ring size 7 1/2.
Size: 7.5 and fully resizable
Weight: 5.2 grams
GIA report number 5232800280
Measurements: 9.8 mm north to south, sits 5.5 mm off of the finger
Markings: French owl import mark
Notes: The diamond was removed from the setting for a polish.
About kozibe effect: The term kozibe derives from a Flemish abbreviation of “Kollet Zichtbaar in Bezel,” which translates to “the culet visible in the crown.” This poetic effect occurs when the open culet of an early diamond is softly reflected across the stone’s broad facets, creating a subtle, ghostlike mirror image within the crown.
The kozibe effect is most commonly seen in old mine–cut and early cushion-shaped diamonds from the 18th and early 19th centuries, particularly those cut in Antwerp and Amsterdam. These diamonds were fashioned before mathematical cutting models existed, so cutters worked by eye and candlelight movement over symmetry. The large, open culet and steep crown angles typical of these stones are what allow the culet to reflect upward and appear as a soft octagonal or circular “shadow” within the crown.
Importantly, kozibe is not a flaw. It’s an optical artifact created by intentional proportions: a high crown, deep pavilion, and broad facets. When light enters the stone, it doesn’t bounce in the crisp, splintery way we associate with modern brilliants. Instead, it pools and rolls across the facets, giving early diamonds a slower, more contemplative play of light. The visible culet becomes part of that rhythm, adding depth and a sense of interior space. They shaped each stone by hand, guided by intuition, experience, and an intimate understanding of light.
Centuries later, we can still admire this quiet marvel, a testament to the ingenuity and artistry of early craftsmanship, and only imagine the patience and skill required to coax such beauty from a rough crystal long before the advent of modern technology.