Dating back to the first decade of the twentieth century, comes this enchanting French Art Nouveau brooch. Rendered in 18K gold, sinuous leaves and blossoms form an elegant organic frame. The plique a jour ground glows with softly shifting lavender-pink cells oulined in a mint green, some glowing with a subtle sunkissed orange center, creating a luminous stained-glass effect. Suspended at the bottom of the frame, a tiny luminous pearl swings and sways, giving the jewel a bit of playful movement.
Plique-a-jour, French for "Light of Day", is one of the most challenging of the enameling techniques. Unlike traditional enamel, which is applied over a solid metal backing, plique a jour enamel is fused into open cells with no backing. The enamel must be carefully layered and fired multiple times, each firing carrying the risk of cracking, warping, or collapse which requires exceptional precision and control. The result, when successful, is a jewel that glows like a miniature stained-glass window, alive with light and depth.
Weight: 6.7 grams
Measurements: 1 7/16" x 1"
Markings: French eagles head for 18K
Notes: When backlit you can see a few very minor hairlines. Small restoration to the inside of the hinge.